What to do on the remote and amazing Ascension Island
Last updated on March 31st, 2025 at 06:46 am
Ohhhh Ascension Island!
From the moment I saw this speck off in the horizon, I think I fell in love. I was lucky enough to be sailing in to the island – at night by the time we got there! It meant waking up to the most incredible volcanic landscape with bright white beaches reflecting out to us in the blue of the sea! I loved it instantly. Others may call it ugly (Charles Darwin for one!) but perhaps the barren ugliness is what I found so beautiful.
Don’t worry – this may be a hard one to get to, but you can – and its absolutely worth all the bother in my books.
Where is Ascension Island?
Ascension Island is in the middle of the Atlantic between Angola and Brazil, and about 1300km northwest of St Helena.
How do I get to Ascension Island?
Its tricky but do-able!
You can arrive by private yacht, on the occasional cruise ship, or by (limited) planes.
You need permission to visit before you can book to come. Apply to the Ascension Island Govt here. Basic requirements are found here. Read it all carefully.
Cruise ships are few and far between, but one I found is run by Adventure Life.
There is a flight once a month from St Helena but it may be difficult to get on and is only once a month – not a good option.
Flights to Ascension Island are possible with the Airforce. They will take tourists if there are enough spare seats. This is your best bet (other than yacht or cruise ship). Read the details on flying to Ascension Island here. The Defence Passenger Reservation Centre number is listed on this page.
When to go to Ascension Island
Ascension has a great climate – its almost on the equator, so any time of year is warm.
BUT, if you want to see the turtles and the crab migration, then February to April is best. Just note that this is also the muggiest and hotter time of the year so you will want to leave early for any hiking, there is more chance of rain at this time of year too!
Where to stay on the island
Stay at the Heart Held Guest House. The Obsidian Hotel you may read about is closed.
Getting around the island
You really need to hire a car. There is no public transport. Check with your accommodation where to get a car as this changes as people come and go from the island.
The speed limit is signed – usually 30-40mph, but 20 mph in Georgetown, Two Boats Village, and when passing the US Base.
Watch out for donkeys on the road.
What money and plugs can I use on Ascension Island?
You can use the local St Helena and Ascension pound which is equivalent to the British Pound, but cannot be used or exchanged anywhere else other than St Helena. Bring British Pounds which can be used anywhere. There is one bank on the island but no cash machines.
Note: The US Dollar can be used on the USA military base.
Credit cards are accepted at the NAAFI shop and at the Chandlery.
Electrical current is 230 volts, 50Hz. Flat three-pin (British) plugs are standard.
Where to eat on the island
You don’t come here for fine dining! There are not a lot of options and the food is basic but perfectly fine. There is a good selection of food available at the small supermarket and at the NAAFI store. These are your other options:
- Two Boats Club
- The NAAFI Snack Bar
- The Saint’s Club
- The Volcano Bar – US base
What to do on Ascension Island
There is no shortage of things to do for the outdoor and wildlife enthusiasts among us. Equally the explorer in you will find plenty of intrigue and interest on this remote and barren island. 11of the best things you can do on Ascension Island are:
1. See Ascension’s wonderful Green Turtles
An absolute must in the season from January to May! Around 4000 green turtles visit the island every year and the most easily seen are on Long Beach right in the capital of Georgetown. It couldn’t be easier.
Each turtle travels all the way from Brazil every 3 or 4 years to breed. they come ashore at night to make a nest and lay the eggs. To see the turtles talk to someone at the museum to organise to go with a conservation worker so you don’t disturb them – they know where to walk / not walk so you don’t damage any nests and will protect them from bright lights by using red lights.
When the babies hatch, about 6-10 weeks later, they scuttle down the beach at night to the sea. If they leave late, in daylight, the frigate birds and crabs have a great feast on them. You can protect a few from the birds and crabs if you are there early to chase them away!
Since Ascension was discovered in 1501, the turtles were used as a source of meat for passing ships and then the residents. They are protected now, but back then they wanted to keep turtles all year round for the meat so they built turtle ponds to keep them in after the season. You can see one of these ponds at the wharf on Long Beach.
You can read a lot more about this at the museum – warning – its not nice by todays standards! Some even got shipped to England to be eaten by the Lords and Admirals – the photos are horrifying by todays standards!
2. Go diving, spearfishing and snorkeling
Apparently the island is surrounded by heaps of Tuna, Wahoo, Mahi, and much more, but also, more recently and at the time I was there, an big population of Galapagos Sharks. You’ll need to talk to the locals to find out the state of play before you go ahead with diving and spearfishing in mind. It is rated as one of the best places in the world to dive for the sheer amount of marine life.
We swam and snorkeled from the boat with lots of curious turtles – the best I’ve ever had as they didn’t swim away from you but came to check you out!
There were also a ton of triggerfish in the area which simply surrounded you as soon as you jumped in the water! We also snorkeled in Comfortless Bay which was easy going and there were more than plenty of fish again.
The marine life here is well covered in this kindle or paperback book.
For swimming, despite a multitude of stunning golden and white sand beaches, most of them are either dangerous or take a long hot hike to get to. But two are simply perfect – Comfortless Cove and the much larger English Bay.
Both are easy to visit by car. Long Beach in Georgetown looks very appealing but has large rips and isn’t good for swimming – but perfect for a walk along the beach and sunset moments.
3. Also see the amazing land crab migration
The Ascension Island Crab or Johngarthia lagostoma, lives in burrows up in on the heights of Green mountain, except once a year when they walk for miles across rocky lava fields and volcanic rocks down to the beaches to spawn. It happens from Feb to April and is really just like the famous Christmas island red crab migration.
If you are not there in the season, (like me which was a real blow), they are nocturnal but you can see them on grey or wet days on the walks up on the mountain. Luckily I saw a few. They only live here on Ascension Island so its quite a treat to see them.
4. Visit the world’s most amazing Cemetery
I decided it has to be! If anyone can tell me of a more wild and crazy cemetery, please please comment below!! this is the Bonetta Cemetery, found at Comfortless Cove. the cemetery dates back to 1838 when sailors from the HMS Bonetta who died of yellow fever were the first buried here.
Walk through the volcanic rocks from Comfortless Cove to see the cemetery – its another absolute must do and hard to describe how amazing it is.
5. Watch thousands of terns soar at the Sooty Tern Colony
For wildlife people, especially birders, this is another must do! Organise a tour through the Museum or Govt Office and get taken to this incredible site with literally thousands of nesting sooty terns. You do have to go on a tour as it involves crossing the US Airbase so entry is not allowed otherwise. No cameras are allowed except at the colony itself as you drive across the airfield and past sensitive military things!
The terns are so unafraid and swoop all over – even landing on your hat as you go! It is a magnificent sight and the noise is ‘entertaining.’
6. Play golf at the world’s worst golf course
In 2008 the Guinness Book of World Records dubbed the One Boat Golf course the “worst” in the world. Its on the road to English Bay.
The “greens” are actually “browns” due to being made of crushed lava and beach sand, which is then flattened with diesel oil. Rocks mark the edge of the ‘fairways.’
Visitors are welcome and cost is minimal.
7. Check out some interesting buildings on the island
- The Moon Base One observatory – on the road to Comfortless Cove. No entry but cool to see.
- The lovely little very white St Mary’s Anglican Church in Georgetown. Built over 1843-46 its a quaint little church to visit.
- The Grotto of Our Lady of Ascension, which was built in 1944 by the US 895th Engineering Regiment for military staff and used until the US base closed in 1947. The statue of Our Lady was imported from the United States. It reopened in 1967, after a lot of renovations, when the US base was re-opened. The Grotto is now a US historical and cultural site. It is close to the US base and Wideawake airport on the main road.
- Government House – the local government building is in the pink-trimmed building in Georgetown.
- The Exiles Club, also in Georgetown, from the earlier 1800s. Housed marines and is now falling apart sadly. hopefully someone will find the money to restore it and its clock-tower.
- BBC communications paraphernalia – scattered across the island are communications towers and the like. In the 960s the BBC decided that Ascension Island was the best place in the world to transmit the BBC World Service to Africa and South America. And so they did – in English Bay! It makes sense given the location between the two continents!
- The Residency – the Governor’s Residence to be exact. Up on Green Mountain – it is private but you can take a look from outside. We were lucky and got invited in so had a good look round the garden and views. Take the road up Green Mountain and you will see a sign on your left – its a sharp turn!
- The Red Lion on Green Mountain – an old barracks for non-commissioned officers, and later farm workers, who were stationed there to support the mountain farm that was there until recently.
- The abandoned NASA site on Nasa Road – built in the mid-60s to support US space programs and Apollo missions, the site known as ‘Devil’s Ashpit Tracking Station’ was abandoned in the 90s. There’s not a lot left to see today but still interesting to think how important it once was.
8. Visit the Museum & Head up to Fort Bedford
The Museum and Gallery, incorporating Fort Hayes, has four sections: the main Museum, the Carriage House, Fort Hayes Magazine, and Fort Hayes itself.
It is a really eclectic museum and a great way to learn about the history of the island, the flora and fauna – including the turtle history, the history of the buildings and the people living there over the years, the USA military on the island, including NASA and its tracking station, and the UK and its military involvement on the island including the Falklands War.
Go on up to Fort Bedford, walk or drive to it half way up Cross Hill, and you will get great views down over Georgetown and over the ruins of Admiralty Lodge just below you.
The fort was one of three built in 1903-6 and used during WWI, then decommissioned, recommissioned during WWII and the guns used once against the German U-Boat U-124 which attacked Ascension Island. The fort was decommissioned again in 1953. Another great sunset spot and a picnic table is in situ!
9. Drive by One Boat and the Lizard Rock
The names of the settlements or places on Ascension Island are fabulous in themselves. One Boat, Two Boats, Cat Hill, Mars Cove for starters…..
Two Boats is a village but One Boat is an intersection on the road between Georgetown and Two Boats – with a boat! Apparently, the boats were used for shelter from the sun when people used to travel up and down from Green Mountain.
Now at One Boat you will see a lot of sports trophies at the base of the boat – apparently the thing to do is leave them here when you leave the island!
As if that’s not enough, just down the road towards Georgetown, is the Lizard Rock. A big rock covered in motley paint of all colors. the tradition is to paint the rock (at night) when you leave the island to ensure you wont come back.
Given I want to go back, I definitely did not partake!
10. Drive up Green Mountain and visit the AIG Conservation team
Look at Ascension on google maps satellite – you can see the volcanos – and definitely pick which one is green mountain – its worth a quick look!
Green Mountain is now a National Park. It was once a barren volcano like the others on the island until a great scheme was hatched to aid in providing water for the waterless island. If a cloud forest was grown on the mountain it would draw water to the island – right?. They did it. Trees and plants from around the world, via Kew Gardens were planted, and today there is a very green, and often cloudy, and misty, Green Mountain. Completely unbelievable!
Drive up Green Mountain and check out the Red Lion and the work of the AIG Conservation team growing native plants in their huge hothouse. They also have restored and maintain the seven walking tracks on the mountain that were once used by soldiers in the garrisons that were there.
There are approximately 25 native plants and ten of them are endemic. Three are extinct but the others are being protected after years of struggle against introduced predators. We had a great chat with one of the workers up there explaining it all to us. Great job they are doing. They may or may not be there when you go but driving up Green Mountain is a must anyway!
11. Go hiking – definitely more than once!
There are more hikes on the island than you can do in a short time, and some you shouldn’t miss. Seven are on Green Mountain and the rest scattered over the island.
If I was to choose three not to be missed they would be: Elliot’s Pass, The Dew Pond Walk, and the Devil’s Riding School Walk. I have also included two more that would go well with these three if you have time.
Elliot’s Pass Walk
This is the longest of the Letterbox Walks on Green Mountain but is very easy – its basically flat and goes around the mountain, not too far from the top, with fabulous views over the island and out to sea all the way.
Walk up the road from the Red Lion to the start of the track. almost at the beginning you go past Elliot Obelisk and then into the first of the tunnels on the walk – there are quite a few and they add a great touch to the walk.
The whole walk you are surrounded by green – lush green! Its like being in a Botanical Garden – which is pretty much what it is given the import of all the plants in this cloud forest.
The few remaining endemic plants are marked which is great, e.g. the critically endangered Xiphopteris ascenionensis – a small fern, and, Sporobolus caespitosus a spikey green-grey grass.
If you are up doing this walk then do the other not to be missed walk on the mountain while you are there – the Dew Pond Walk.
Dew Pond Walk
Another favorite, and quite a short Letterbox Walk (less than an hour return). Again walk up to it from the Red Lion.
Close to the start, walk through gnarled trees on a boardwalk until you come to what must be the most remote bamboo forest in the world. Steps take you up through the bamboo forest until you reach the pretty little Dew Pond.
The pond was created in 1875 with the help of the water resulting from the growing forest. The bamboo was planted later, in 1877 – but you know how fast bamboo grows!
Just further on from the Dew Pond is the top of the mountain – with an official sign! Its an absolutely magical little walk.
Devil’s Riding School Walk
This is another quite easy and beautiful Letterbox Walk. In stark contrast to the Green Mountain walks, this is a barren volcanic walk with fascinating rocky features all the way through lava fields.
Walk to an ancient crater with a dry lake, which really does look like it has been used for a riding school – with what seems like riding circles around the lake floor. In the crater area small strange ‘balls’ – the devils eyes!
To finish the walk, it is a short uphill to the top of a volcanic cone (and the letterbox). This walk makes you feels like you are walking around on mars.
Monkey Rock Cemetery
This is a short walk from The Residency to the Monkey Rock Cemetery. Walk through trees, ferns, grasses and a rock pass. You could also see the land crabs here – we were lucky enough to see a few.
At the cemetery, the oldest marked tombstone is from 1856. More recently an ex-governor and his wife had their ashes interred here in the 2000’s.
If you are on the mountain walking Elliot’s Pass or another walk, it is worth taking a short diversion on the way up or down the mountain.
Bishops Path Walk
This is another Letterbox walk on Green Mountain and if you have time is worth doing – maybe again with the Dew Pond Walk as this also starts from the Red Lion and is only about an hours circular walk.
Quite open for the first part and then lush and jungly green again to finish. you get views of the top of Green Mountain and over the southern part of the island, including Wideawake Airfield – if the weather is clear up there. It’s still pretty nice in patchy cloud!
With these walks you will have seen some of the best of the island. There are plenty more if you have time. Whatever you do, do go hiking!
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