The ultimate south-west Antioquia guide: Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
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If you want to escape the hustle of Medellín and dive straight into the heart of Colombia’s coffee country, then you are in luck because you are right near the fabulous trio of small coffee country towns – Jardín, Jericó, and Venecia! And between the three of them I think you get the best of the best of coffee country – great scenery, wildlife and nature, wonderful and colorful architecture, specialty foods, fascinating culture, as well as plenty of hiking and other adventures if you want!
First, you have Jardín, which completely lives up to its name with its vibrant, flower-filled balconies and colorful central plaza where locals hang out over coffee. Just over the mountains is Jericó, a beautifully preserved heritage town famous for its traditional leather craftsmanship of carrieles as well as being the birthplace of Colombia’s only saint. Finally, there is Venecia, way off the beaten path and right by the base of Cerro Tusa – the largest natural pyramid on Earth.
Read on for details on each and what you can do and see there!
Contents
(Use this to skip ahead if you’d like to)
Top tours if you are short of time!
Jardín: What to do, where to stay and how to get there
Jericó: What to do, where to stay and how to get there
Venecia: What to do, where to stay and how to get there
A 7-8 day itinerary for Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
Travel Tips for Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
Frequently Asked Questions about Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
Things to pack for your trip to Colombia
Trip Planning Checklist
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Top tours if you are short of time!
This is a lovely area and great to linger in, but if you are short of time, I recommend these tours from Medellin to give you the best of it all:
- Jardín Town, Waterfalls, Jeep Tour & Culture
- Mother Laura Coffee Tour of Jerico
- Jerico and Cerro Tusa combo tour
Jardín: What to do, where to stay and how to get there
This is the kind of place you come for a day or two and stay a week or two – or longer!
However, if you are short on time, or verry happily sitting in your hotel in Medellin, but want to see the best of these towns there are a number of daytrips from Medellin.
What to do in Jardín
Jardín is another of Colombia’s most photogenic towns! Its famous for its perfectly preserved town square, rivers and waterfalls, and some very special birds!
1. Sit and enjoy the Plaza del Libertador
Sit and enjoy the Plaza with the locals – it is quite a beauty. It is filled with brightly painted wooden tables and chairs where locals sit to drink their red wine. The whole square is dwarfed by the quite imposing, neo-Gothic Basilica sitting on one side of the flowery square. Its great for people watching too! Its probably my favorite plaza of all the ones I saw in Colombia – just so chill, and, well, just so nice!
2. See inside the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception
The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception looks amazing day and night from the outside, and of course, it is also lovely inside! Take a peek while you are in the plaza!
3. Visit the Cueva del Esplendor!
This is a big drawcard to Jardín and one of “the” must-do’s while you are here!
You need to be able to do some walking to get to the Cueva del Esplendor. Even if you take a tuktuk part of the way, or a jeep even further, you still have to walk a few kms to get to the cave.
You can also walk all the way from Jardin – it is about 3 hours each way with little shade. You can return via a different route to make it a loop – the AllTrails Cave of Splendor Circuit map gives you the route. Download it before you leave town as you lose reception in places.
At the cave you will be taken down a forest path to the caves where you will have time to swim. Don’t worry – you wont run out of swim time because the water is pretty chilly!
Note that this Cueva del Esplendor Hike with Guide & Poles is a very reasonably priced, and easy, option.
4. Go on some other hikes
There are a few other hikes around Jardin you can go on – some well marked and known and others not!
- A nice morning hike (and swim) is to the Cascada la Escalera via the Cristo Rey and returning in a loop walk. You walk to Cristo Rey from the end of Calle 11. From there continue on the road to the crossroads after Cafe Jardin, turn right and follow the road to the bridge. Use this AllTrails Cerro de Cristo Rey – Cafe Jardin Coffee Circuit map, BUT
before the bridge on the left take a detour and go up to the Cascada la Escalera. You can take a natural shower in the waterfalls, and there is a small pool at the bottom which was perfect for a cooling soak for me! Its definitely worth the few extra minutes! - Another nice morning or afternoon walk with a twist is this Charco Corazón – Cascada del Amor walk on AllTrails. What’s the twist? Its a short cut across the valley taking La Garrucha – a somewhat different style of cable car! I think its best starting there, then walking back to town via the bat cave ( see no 9 below) and the little (insignificant) Cascada del Amor.
- Finally, a more adventurous hike is the 7 Waterfalls hike. This is a muddy and slippery hike which has ropes near the end of the trail – which you need! But it is popular with those that like a bit of adventure. Do make sure you have the map downloaded before you go as the path is not obvious in places (after the Dragon Waterfall) and you will end up without signal at times. If you don’t want too much of that then walk just to the Dragon Waterfall!
5. Explore the Museo de la chatara
On the way back into town from your walk to the bat cave and the Cascada del Amor, you will pass the absolutely fabulous Museo de la chatara. Even if you don´t do the walk, just go and check out the creativity of this man who has dedicated time and imagination to making things with scrap metal and antique objects! Its quite brilliant!
6. See the birds at the Cock-of-the-Rock Reserve
This is a wildlife sanctuary located right on the edge of town where you can watch the brilliant scarlet-orange Andean Cock-of-the-Rock birds when they come down to the forest near the end of each day.
From October to March is the best time to come because then you will see the males doing their courtship dances at dusk. The rest of the year you will still see these incredible birds, but will be unlikely to see courtship behaviour!
You can also visit with a guide – Cock of the Rock Birdwatching in Jardin with Professional Guide – but I would say this is for serious birdwatchers only and from October to March. If you just want to see them then just go to the reserve and pay the entrance fee – note they October to March timeframe is by far the best but you still will see them in the other months!
7. Check out the coffee scene
Of course you are in coffee country – so visiting a coffee farm is a must if you haven’t already!
I do recommend the Coffee Tour and Jeep Tour at Finca Mariposa in Jardin but this private tour is very popular as well. Whichever you do, you will learn (and do) the process of coffee growing from seed to coffee for sale!
8. Ride La Garrucha Cable Car
This cable car is more like a tin can on a couple of wires! It was originally used by local farmers to haul goods across the valley and seems to have been working well for a long time so don’t stress when you see it! It is a bit of a cheap thrill to be fair – maybe slightly nerve-wracking, but the ride takes you across the valley to a restaurant and viewpoint where you can relax before you walk back to the town or get back on for your return trip! Its a couple of dollars each way.
9. See the caves and bats
On the way back from the Charco Corazón – Cascada del Amor walk you will come to a river intersection where there is a local bat cave. A lovely little man will take you onto this property and show you the caves and bats for about 20 mins – they are quite fabulous (if you like wildlife and that includes bats)! It costs around $5.00.
10. Simply explore the colorful (and clean) streets of Jardín and enjoy the cafe and restaurant scene
Jardín comes complete with clean streets, color, and cafes! You can just wander and enjoy the colorful streets and then pop into any cafe you find to enjoy a quiet coffee or cake. I have already mentioned the plaza and there are some nice cafes lining it, for example, Café Macanas which is pretty pleasing to the eye with its hanging plants – as well as good local coffee. But there is plenty of life beyond the plaza – try out Colectores Café de jardín which has a lovely patio area and probably the best coffee in town – and waffles, or, pop into Mambrú Jardín with a wide range of options and good service and seee if that is your vibe. There are plenty more but wander and explore!
11. Eat the local speciality – trout
Its the thing to eat here – trout! A couple of trout-dining options you will find on your walk back from Cascada la Escalera, or you can take a short walk or tuk tuk ride from town, are La Argelia Restaurante Truchera, or Truchera Montemar which has only trout (so don’t come if you want something else).
Right in town, absolutely try out Otra Cocina Jardín Restaurante – which also has trout. The food is delicious and its review scores are very high – lets hope that lasts!
12. For the adventurous – go rappelling in waterfalls or parapenting
Parapenting – I didn’t do it but if that’s your thing or you want to give it a shot, go direct to the office at either Volar Parapente Jardin or Parapente Jardin and check out whats on offer!
And if you think rappelling might be more your adventure then check this out – Rappelling and Torrentism. Again I didn’t do it, but if you are an adventurer then this might be a great way to spend some time in Jardin!
Where to stay in Jardin
There are so many options in Jardin – scroll through here to take a look. I stayed at the great Hospedaje en Esplendor and can recommend it for a great budget option, but I also checked out these very highly rated places which I recommend:
Higher end – Hotel Plantación (lovely rooms and balconies) or Casa Passiflora Hotel Boutique (with lovely garden and hot tub)
Mid Range – the Volarte Hotel or Hotel Macao
Good value options – apart from the Hospedaje en Esplendor you can try these great options: Origen Hostel Jardín (clean cheap dorms) or Vista Farallones Hostel (dorms and very cheap privates – peaceful and clean)
How to get to Jardin
The easiest option is from Medellin as there a several buses daily from the Terminal del Sur with the Rápido Ochoa company. It takes about 4 hours.
Jericó: What to do, where to stay, and how to get there
Known and famous in Colombia as the birthplace of Colombia’s only saint!! This is another lovely town and you might hear debates as to which one people like better – Jericó or Jardin!
Tours from Medellin, in particular this extremely popular Mother Laura Coffee Tour of Jerico with transport from Medellin, will give you the history of the only saint of Colombia along with your coffee!
You can also try one of these two tours: Magical Jericho Sightseeing Tour and BBQ at a Private Estate or From Medellín: Jericó Full-Day Tour.
But if you do have the time, I recommend going and spending a night or two in the town.
What to do in Jericó
Jericó not only has a strong religious history with Saint Laura, but also a good food scene, plenty of art and museums for its size, and some very nice hiking trails! There is plenty to explore. These are the top things to do:
1. Take the chiva from Jardin!
This is something you have to do at least once when in Colombia – take a chiva. And there is no better place than between these two towns – it will also save you hours and hours on a bus on bring motorways!
A chiva is a very colorful open wooden bus and used to tackle mountain roads. You will be on the bus with the locals and it is great fun – if not a little bumpy!
To get to Jericó from Jardin on the chiva, you actually go in a minivan to a nearby town – Andes – first and then get on the chiva – but they will tell you that at the bus stop. In Andes make your way to the bus station (you will be dropped off near the main square a couple of blocks away) and jump on the chiva to Jericó – easy! There are two buses a day – check the times at the bus station in Jardin the day before – it takes about 2.5 hours!
Note: You can do this either way of course – in case you happen to come to Jericó first!
2. Explore the Botanic Garden on the way up to the Cristo Redentor Viewpoint!
Walk up to the large Jesus statue overlooking the town – the Cristo Redentor viewpoint – but go via the peaceful Jericó Botanical Garden and take your time to exploreit on the way. It costs a few dollars to get in.
You can avoid the Botanic Garden if you want by walking up the road – its up to you. Just before the statue you will also see the cable car! This was a tourist attraction taking you up to the hills in Cerro Las Nubes above the town but it got caught up in administrative and cost issues and no longer runs. Shame, but…
3. Wander through the classic Antioquian architecture in the streets of Jericó!
Its really nice to just wander and admire the classic Antioquian architecture, including the intricately carved wooden balconies, about town. The plaza is also a busy place and dominated by the grand Cathedral of Our Lady of Mercedes which looks pretty good.
While wandering don’t miss no 9’s tango bar, and don’t miss Poets Street (Calle 5 – mostly around Calle 5 #4-27) or counting the stairs in Calle Cien Escalas!!
4. Go day hiking – its great!
Right by town you can hike all through Cerro Las Nubes. I loved this – its a steepish hike up, but there are lots of trail options you can take – including a loop hike. On top you really are above the clouds and there are a couple of great miradors to watch them swirling around below you. Fab for a picnic and fab views of the surrounding ranges and valleys.
Get started with this popular Las Nubes Trail on AllTrails, but also check out other top trails in the area.
5. Visit the museums
Jericó has a lot of museums and art for a small town. These are the key ones – note that one ticket (about $10-12) covers entry to all of the first three :
- The MAJA Museum (Museo de Antropología y Artes de Jericó Antioquia) for regional art, archaeological artifacts, and local history. It is small and even I ( a self-proclaimed heathen) enjoyed it!
- Casa Museo Jose Tomas Uribe – this is the other one I enjoyed as its really the home of José Tomás Uribe Abad who through his own work became a wealthy business man and collected things as he travelled the world in the 20th century.
- Casa de la Música de Jericó – the music museum – which has a collection of musical instruments from all round the world. Its also quite a fascinating place.
- Centro de Historia de Jericó – this museum is free to enter and covers the history of Jericó itself. Interestingly it used to have its own money!
- Museo de Arte Religioso de Jericó – under the Cathedral and displays religious artifacts. I didn’t visit but entry is very cheap and it has good reviews.
6. See the birthplace of Colombia’s only saint – Santa Laura, and, the wonderful Sanctuario Santa Laura church
Santa Laura Montoya was born in Jericó and is Colombia’s first and only canonized saint. Her birthplace has been turned into a sanctuary and museum and is a major pilgrimage site for Catholic travelers. Its called Casa Natal Madre Laura on googlemaps.
But my favorite is the pink church dedicated to this saint – the Sanctuario Santa Laura. I love it -its simply gorgeous in pink! Tip: have a coffee in the cafe across the road and enjoy sitting looking at it!
7. Try local delicacies!
These are the “must eats / drinks” while visiting Jerico!
- Postre Jericoano: This is a legendary local dessert with seven layers of sponge cake, wine, dulce de leche caramel, and local fruits like papayas, oranges and figs. The place to go to try it is La Pizzería de José.
- Cardamom candies and other local sweets: Visit Jericó Encantado and /or Dulces El Jericuano to sample local treats, especially their famous cardamom-infused candies. Jericó was once the leading exporter of cardamom in Colombia and has a long tradition of incorporating this spice into sweets.
- Finally, the nuns at the Monasterio de Santa Clara produce a sweet fruit wine called Vino de las Clarisas. They sell this and yummy cookies through a little shutter window. Definitely worth going for both!!
8. Join in at a Tango Bar!
Stop by at Tangos y Algo Más for a funky vibe and retro interior – and to experience the town’s surprising appreciation for classic tango music! I just enjoyed sitting here watching the locals and checking out the paraphernalia which starts with poetry on the outside wall!
9. Watch the artisans making carrieles!
It turns out that Jericó is the birthplace of the Carriel – those iconic leather bags the traditional Colombian cowboys / blokes wear! You can watch them being made by the local artisans at places like Hecho en Jericó Carrieles. You can also get the staff to sho you all the pockets in each bag – there are lots! They were created to conceal important documents and money – one I saw had 21 pockets!
10. Go paragliding!
Once again, you can try your hand at paragliding. Check out Parapente Nube Extrema and the different flight options they have. Apparently people come from all over to fly here! I regret I didn’t do this 🙁
Where to stay in Jericó
There are also plenty of options in Jardin – scroll through here to take a look. I stayed at the spacious and clean Aloja-T Hostal Jericó and can recommend it for a great budget option, but I also checked out these very highly rated places which I recommend:
Higher end – book at either El Despertar Hotel or Patio Chic
Mid Range – try a private room at the tranquil and beautiful La Casa Rosada Hostel
Good value options – apart from the Aloja-T Hostal Jericó you can try these great options: La Casa Rosada Hostel (also has clean cheap dorms) or La casa de la abuela (cheap private rooms). Parcerito’s Hostel is a popular backpacker hub with an absolutely lovely host – but quite cramped!
How to get to Jericó!
See No 1. above for how to get here on a chiva from Jardin. Or take a bus from the Southern Transportation Terminal (Terminal del Sur) in Medellín, which takes about 3 hours.
Venecia: What to do, where to stay and how to get there
The reason to go to Venecia is to climb Cerro Tusa – the worlds largest natural pyramid! Or you can just go to get off the beaten path and write a book or something like that! It is fun to visit – and you will find very few foreign tourists there. You will notice the main square has lots of chickens and roosters that live there. People with businesses around the square feed them and look after them! There are also no stray cats or dogs – the people look after them too!
What to do in Venecia
Its all about Cerro Tusa – but there are a couple of other things, apart from friendly roosters, that might interest you too. Read on…
1. Climb the world’s highest natural pyramid!
Its hot and sweaty and tough stuff, but how often do you get the chance to climb the worlds highest natural pyramid!
You can preview the Cerro Tusa trail on AllTrails to get an idea of what it involves. This is what you need to know:
- From the town take a taxi or moto-taxi about 5kms to the starting point. Go early to avoid the midday heat!
- You have to climb up with a certified guide. Go in the weekend as then they create groups from the people that turn up and it makes it much cheaper for you (approx $20 per person as compared to $120 for a private guide.) However, if you want a really good guide who will really engage you in the whole trip (and it doesnt matter if it is a weekday or weekend) then this is a great tour option: Cerro Tusa Tour: Hike the tallest natural pyramid-Roundtrip
- The park entry gate is only open from 7:00 to 11:00am. Only 150 hikers per day are allowed so get there early for this reason and to avoid the heat. The mountain is closed every Tuesday for ecological recovery and trail maintenance.
- It takes about 3 hours to go up and you need gloves as a lot of the time you are using ropes to pull yourself up. Gardening gloves are good! It takes about 1.5 -2 hours to come back down – often you are walking backwards down the hill.
- It is a tough walk – very steep and the earth is hard and dusty. There are no stones or roots – just dust! Wear good boots.
2. See the Zenú Goddess Face!
La Diosa del Espejo (The Goddess of the Mirror) is a massive natural rock profile of a goddess that was revered by the pre-Hispanic Zenufaná people.
When you have climbed Cerro Tusa and come back down to the flattish lower sections, you can see the profile of the face from these terraces, by looking upward. Or you can seee it from the starting point of the hile – at the stone steps of the Altar de Ofrendas. Its best seen in the afternoon.
3. Visit an artist and his works at the Casa Museo Venecia Antioquia!
The Casa Museo Venecia Antioquia is actually an art gallery as such! It is a long term dedicated piece of work full of art and quite wonderful to visit and to listen to the artist talk about his work. Just go and see – even from the outside – its worth a short walk!!
4. Eat Arepas Venecianas!
This is a local street snack – effectively corn cakes stuffed with meat or coated in melting cheese!
5. Visit the Museo Cerro Tusa Zenufaná
A small museum covering the pre- Colombian history of the area – including of course Cerro Tusa. Its free and worth a look in if you are staying the night!
Where to stay in Venecia
For a small place there are plenty of options to check out here, but these are good options to start with:
Higher end – Hacienda La Amalia
Mid Range – Hacienda San Francisco
Good value – Finca Hotel El Juncal (my option – with simple rooms, lovely hosts, and very peaceful in the garden space)
How to get to Venecia
Take a direct bus from the Medellín South Bus Terminal. it takes about 1.5-2 hours. Or take this great Jerico and Cerro Tusa combo tour from Medellin!
A 7-8 day itinerary for Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
As I said, these are towns you can linger in but if you are short of time – here’s a plan!
Day 1: Travel to Jardin, settle in, head to the main plaza and see the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, eat dinner at Otra Cocina Jardín Restaurante–
Day 2: Hike or take a tour to Cueva del Esplendor, visit the Cock of the Rock Reserve in the evening.
Day 3: Ride La Garrucha Cable Car one way and walk to the bat cave (swim in the river on the way), or, get a return cable care ticket and then walk via Cristo Rey to the Cascada la Escalera. Try the local trout.
Day 4: Take the chiva to Jerico. Explore the streets and find the tango bar. Try out the local Postre Jericoano at La Pizzería de José.
Day 5: Go hiking in Cerro Las Nubes, later walk to the Cristo Redentor Viewpoint via the Botanic Gardens.
Day 6: Explore the museums and watch the carrieles being made, or go paragliding – or both! You can also explore more of the hiking on hiking in Cerro Las Nubes. (Skip this day if you only have 7 days.)
Day 7: Travel to Venecia, explore the town and Casa Museo Venecia Antioquia, get ready for your hike the next day – make sure you have gloves!
Day 8: Climb Cerro Tusa, take an afternoon bus back to Medellin.
Frequently asked questions about Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
Qn: Are these towns safe for solo or international travelers?
A: Yes, very safe and very easy to stay in.
Qn: Can I use my credit or debit card in these towns?
A: Not in many places – bring cash as the ATMs are unreliable too.
Qn: Where is the best place to see the Andean Cock-of-the-rock in Jardín?
A: The best location is the Reserva Natural Jardín de Rocas, just on the edge of town. Visit late in the afternoon (after 4pm).
Qn: How do I travel between Jericó and Jardín without going back to Medellín?
A: Take the chiva bus – get the details above in No 1 under Jerico.
Qn: How long does the chiva trip between Jericó and Jardín take?
A: About 3-3.5 hours. The chiva between Jericó to Andes takes about 2.5 hours and its a 30-minute ride between Andes to Jardín.
Qn: Which bus route should I take from Medellín to Jericó?
A: Always buy a ticket for the bus that goes via Bolombolo. It will save you an hour of windy roads.
Qn: Do I need a permit or guide to hike Cerro Tusa?
A: Yes, a certified guide is mandatory.
Qn: How difficult is the Cerro Tusa hike?
A: Very – its a scramble and a very steep descent, but ropes and cables are in place to help.
Qn: What specific gear is required for Cerro Tusa?
A: You must wear good hiking boots and bring a pair of tough work gloves to protect your hands when pulling yourself up by the installed safety ropes and cables.
Travel tips for Jericó, Jardín, and Venecia
- Instead of returning to Medellín, use the chiva bus to go between Jericó and Jardín. It will save a lot of time and its fun!
- Bring cash – thee are ATMs in Jerico and Jardin but they often run out in weekends and there are power cuts at times as well. Only large hotels and restaurants are likely to take cards.
- Bring layers – it goes from hot days to chillier nights, and rain can happen!
- If you are traveling from Medellín’s Terminal del Sur to Jericó, explicitly request a ticket for the bus route via Bolombolo at the ticket counter. This highway bypasses the winding mountain pass of Fredonia, which cuts about an hour of travel!
- Don’t rush it – these are good safe towns to really enjoy local Colombian life!
Things to pack for your trip to Colombia!
This is what I have packed and use!
- Clothing layers
- Good hiking shoes as well as ‘around town and hotel’ shoes & crocs
- Waterproof jacket or poncho and / or umbrella
- A very lightweight day pack as well – this one to be exact!
- A reusable insulated water bottle to cut down on single-use plastic waste.
- High-SPF Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and cap or sunhat – the altitude is high and you can get burnt even on cloudy days
- Swimwear and Quick-Dry Microfiber Towel
- A drybag to protect your gear or a rain cover for your day pack
- Your camera/phone and power bank for day trips! Plus a water-proof pouch for your phone.
- Secure wallet / travel pouch for money and cards.
- Travel plug adapter if you are from outside the Americas – Colombia uses the same plugs as the USA and Canada.
- Mosquito repellent (deet free) Also lightweight clothes that cover arms and legs as protection.
- Wet wipes and hand sanitiser – for the less pleasant toilets etc
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