What you need to know to hike the Peaks of the Balkans trail 2026!
Last updated on August 25th, 2026 at 12:53 am
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Setting off on a hiking trail that doesn’t feel overrun or over-organised is perfect for many of us. And that’s exactly what you get on the Peaks of the Balkans trail!
It’s a long-distance circular hiking route (192 km / 119 miles) through the very rugged Accursed Mountains (Prokletije) in Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. And (in my humble opinion) getting onto the trail is one of the best things you can do in the Balkans – or even Europe!
The trail is not just a fantastic hike with great scenery, but you are also immersed into local culture. During the day you’re climbing steep mountain passes, but in the evening you end up sitting in a family-run guesthouse eating homemade bread, cheese, and a good fill of soups and meats! So, if you’re a fan of dramatic landscapes, great hospitality, and a great hike without much difficulty, this trail is for you!
This post will tell you all you need to know to hike the trail independently. But if you do want a guide or just a taste of the trail there are other options too – I have some links below to check out. I hiked independently so can’t comment on any organised treks, but I do say that whichever way you decide to go – just go. You wont be disappointed!
Contents
What is the Peaks of the Balkans trail?
How to get to the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
The hiking route and AllTrails map
Booking accommodation on the trail!
Day to day itinerary and where to stay on the trail
Where to stay before and after your hike
How to get your border crossing permit
What to pack to hike the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
Some alternative shorter options – but still getting a great hike!
Some excellent side trips on the hike!
Frequently asked questions about the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
Travel Tips for the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
Trip Planning Checklist
These are the booking platforms I personally use for all my travels. If you book through these affiliate links, it helps support this site and keeps me producing free travel guides – at absolutely no extra cost to you. Thanks so much for the support! Cheers!
All in one – if you want to book flights and accommodation as a package, use expedia
Flights – use skyscanner or booking.com to find and book your flight – I often find the same flight cheaper than booking direct with the airline!
Accommodation – I use booking.com for hotels, Hostelworld for a hostel, and Vrbo for holiday houses.
Internet – buy a yesim eSim or Airalo before you go. I use both depending on where I am going.
Tours and Activities – book with Viator or GetYourGuide. These are some tours available on the trail:
- Peaks of the Balkans 8-Day Hiking Tour from Tirana (Albania and Montengro sections)
- Peak of the Balkans e-Biking Tour from Plav (day trip)
- Semi-Private Tour – Peaks of the Balkans – Theth, Valbona & Koman Lake (4 days from Tirana / Shkoder)
- Hiking in Hajla Peak 2403m (day trip in part of the Peaks of the Balkans and Via Dinarica trails from Peja)
Car rental – I usually use DiscoverCars
Insurance – I usually use EKTA , but another good option, especially if you are from the US is SafetyWing. EKTA works well as they accept any nationality, any age and its ok if you are already traveling – which is perfect for me!
Buses, trains, ferries – 12Go is often my first option for buses, ferries and trains – they are expanding worldwide but are very strong in Asia. They cover parts of Europe like Germany and France, and Australia and Latin America – especially Argentina.
Hiking – I use AllTrails for online and offline hiking trails – it means you know exactly where you are on the trail and makes getting lost a lot harder!!
Thanks so much if you use one of these links – it costs you nothing but helps me keep writing!
What is the Peaks of the Balkans trail?
The Peaks of the Balkan Trail (PoB) is a fantastic 192 km (119 mile) loop trail that takes you through the beautiful and rugged Accursed Mountains of Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.
The next sections will tell you everything you need to know. Read it all and you should be well prepared for heading off on the hike. If you are fit and prepared this is one of the best multi-day hikes in Europe!
How to get to the Peaks of the Balkans trail
Theth (Albania), Valbonë (Albania), or Plav (Montenegro) are the main starting (and finishing) points. Pejë (Kosovo) is another good option. I spent a night here and really enjoyed the chill town and its people. Don’t let people tell you that you can’t start and finish here – you can easily.
Fly into Tirana, Podgorica, or Pristina, then bus or transfer to the trail.
It’s a loop so you finish where you start.
To get to Theth from Tirana, bus to Shkodër, then take a minibus from Shkodër – one leaves at 7am. Ask your hostel to help you book ahead.
To get to Valbonë from Tirana, the most popular (and scenic route) is from Shkodër to Koman, then take the ferry across Komani Lake to Fierze, then a minibus or bus to Valbona. You can use this Shkoder to Valbona Valley transfer service.
To get to Pejë take a bus from Pristina (about 1.5 hours). And to Plav take a bus from Podgorica (about 5 hours) or you can take a bus from Pejë (about 3.5 hours).
The most popular and easiest route is Shkodër to Theth.
The hiking route and AllTrails map
This is a 10 day (give or take) circular trail through the Accursed Mountains in Montenegro, Kosovo and Albania. You will need to download this Peaks of the Balkans trail map to use offline. Play the preview for a taste of what you will get!
Below is an outline of where the trail goes across the three countries.
Booking accommodation on the trail!
You can book everything in advance, and this might be appropriate in peak season (July and August) or if you really really want to stay in a particular guesthouse. But you don’t need to book ahead for the whole trail if you want to have more flexibility.
My advice is book your first two nights on the trail and then just book a couple of days ahead as you go with a couple off exceptions. You can call or message guesthouses as you go and most hosts are used to this happening and are very flexible. The places I would definitely book ahead (the exceptions) are Theth, Valbonë and Çerem!
You can go to the other extreme and just find accommodation on the day, but I don’t recommend it in peak season! Although to be fair, you would probably find something each day – it may not be the popular place or what you want, but you are likely to get something.
What is the accommodation like?
Most places you’ll stay at are family-run guesthouses / homestays. They are usually very comfortable and provide hot showers and usually dinner (although this may be optional). Often there are dorm style rooms, sometimes you have private room options too. Most also include a packed lunch option for your next day. These packed lunches are great – so easy!
How to actually make your accommodation bookings on the trail
Most guesthouses use WhatsApp. They may also use Facebook and of course word of mouth. Don’t rely on Booking.com – it only covers some of what’s actually available on the Peaks of the Balkans. However, do use Booking.com to book in the large towns – Theth, Shkodër, Plav, Valbonë. Away from the towns, the system is much more local than that. Either ask your current guesthouse where to stay – often they will book for you, or give you a name and WhatsApp number.
Note: Screenshot any contact details etc as service is patchy in the mountains!
How to find the accommodation options before you arrive
Most people will book a night in the main town before they head to the track on Booking.com or Hostelworld. I booked a night in Shkodër and two nights in Theth ahead of time. I booked two nights in Theth so I could do the Blue Eye walk the first day, before heading off on the trail.
For the villages on the trail, use GPX route guides, blogs (like this), and Facebook groups (search: Peaks of the Balkans). You can also use Google Maps (which can be surprisingly useful)!
What’s the cost of accommodation on the trail?
The cost is usually around €25 – €40 per person for bed, dinner, breakfast, and packed lunch.
Day to day itinerary and where to stay on the trail
This is a popular 10 day route starting in Theth which you can use as a guide. Other common starting points are Plav or Valbonë. I also had a day off in Peja in Kosovo and you could easily start from here too. As it is a loop you can just adjust depending on where you decide to start.
I have given the names of guesthouses or hostels I stayed at but these are not the only options of course!
Day 0: Arrive in Theth
Get your bearings!
Stayed at: Guest House Rrashkadoli (really good food and close to the trailhead but not so close to the main center – booked via booking.com)
Day 1: Theth → Valbonë
6–8 hrs with a big ascent/descent (1000m).
A very popular day hike and so more crowded than any other day on the trail.
Stayed at: Guesthouse Jezerca (booked via booking.com)
Day 2: Valbonë → Çerem
6–7 hrs
Great views. Cross into Montenegro and back again.
Stayed at: Guesthouse Afrimi (messaged on FB)
Day 3: Çerem → Dobërdol
6–8 hrs
Lovely high alpine scenery
Stayed at: Guesthouse Bashkimi (messaged on FB)
Day 4: Dobërdol → Milishevc (Kosovo)
6–7 hrs
First full border crossing. Tromeda Peak Summit (Three Border Peak) – marks the intersection of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo!
Stayed at: Bujtina Lojza (messaged – WhatsApp)
Day 5: Milishevc → Rekë e Allagës
5–7 hrs
Lots of forest and a nice lake to swim in!
Stayed at: Ariu Guesthouse (messaged – WhatsApp)
Day 6: Rekë e Allagës → Babino Polje (Montenegro)
6–8 hrs
Pretty scenery. (A lot of wildflowers earlier in the season – I’m not sure about later!)
Stayed at: Eco Lodge Hrid (messaged WhatsApp)
Day 7: Babino Polje → Plav
4–6 hrs
Nice lake on the route.
Stay in a hostel or hotel in Plav for a nice break. You might even take a rest day.
Stayed at: Hostel Bear Hug is very popular but was booked out when I got there. I stayed at Central Hostel which is not advertised anywhere but was really comfortable and clean. Its on the road you walk into town on just near a great bakery and not far before you reach the main road.
Day 8: Plav → Vusanje
4–5 hrs
Easy to arrange a lift to take you part of the way along the track – worth it as this bit is not so interesting and the rest of the day is fabulous with dramatic scenery.
Take an extra day here to do the Three Peaks Hike- Volušnica TalIjanka Popadija!! I did this – hitched a couple of rides to get there and then did the day walk. It was absolutely spectacular!
Stayed at: Guesthouse Vucetaj (didn’t book – just arrived and was lucky)
Day 9: Vusanje → Theth
7–9 hrs
Tough but soooo beautiful. You can arrange a lift part of the way along the Ropojana Valley, but it was a lot more expensive and I don’t think worth it as the walk along the valley is quite stunning.
Stop at the “Eye of the Grasshopper” (Oko Skakavice) – a fabulouslyu freezing, crystal-clear karst water pool early on in the Ropojana Valley. I swam in it – for about 1/2 a second!! Its temperature is just above freezing – be brave its very refreshing!
Stayed at: Guest House Rrashkadoli (booked on booking.com)
Day 10: Buffer / Rest Day or an extra day in Theth
Weather delays are common and a lot of people underestimate the fitness level needed.
Or spend an extra day in Theth either relaxing or doing some more walking.
In Theth take a day walk to Syri i Kaltër – The Blue Eye) – absolutely stunning and absolutely freezing!! But you have to take a dip – its amazing! I do recommend taking the shuttle bus from Theth to the start of the real trailhead, rather than walking along the road for hours first.
Where to stay before and after your hike
I have given you some great options for your stay in the main towns at the beginning or end of your hike (or part way through). Most are rated over 9/10 with a few I used that are in the 8’s. Enjoy!
Theth
Guest House Rrashkadoli (mine and comfy with a lovely setting) or Kulla e Sadri Lukes or Bujtina Milani but check here if these are not available.
Valbone
Guesthouse Jezerca (mine and very comfy with great food) or Guesthouse Gezim Selimaj or Guesthouse Rama but check here if these are not available
Pejë
Sky Hostel (mine and very friendly and comfy) or Bora or Hotel Camp Karagaq or check here if these are not available.
Plav
Bear Hug Lodge (very popular so book ahead) or Zeppelin or Camp Laksi but check here if these are not available.
Shkodër
The Wanderers Hostel or Shkodra Backpackers Hostel or The Hood Hostel & Day Tours or check here if these are not available.
How to get your border crossing permit
You can try and contact Police / immigration in each country and organise it yourself – it might take weeks. The easiest way is to use Zbulo who will do it all for you! You need to do it a minimum of 1 week before you travel to make sure you get it on time.
If you don’t have a permit you can get fined a few hundred Euros. You may not be asked for your permit (most are not from my experience) but its not worth the hassle if you are asked to produce it!
You do need to know your itinerary – as you give dates for the crossings. Apparently if you are a day off it is not a drama!
What to pack to hike the Peaks of the Balkans trail!
You’re not packing for an expedition up Everest but you do need the right gear for this hike as the weather can change quickly and you can get all sorts – especially early and late in the season! One day I was sweating with the heat and sun at 2pm and by 3pm I was in torrential rain – the kind that gets you wet no matter what wet weather gear you have!
I am going to assume you are staying in guest houses and so do not need camping gear. If you have decided to camp, then you will know what extra you need – tent, mat, sleeping bag, cooking gear, dehydrated food etc.
Key note: pack light (8–12 kg max) – don’t over pack!
This is what you need
- Broken-in hiking boots or trail runners (make sure they are broken in and comfortable)
- 2 hiking shirts (quick-dry)
- 2 pairs of hiking trousers/shorts
- 1 warm layer (fleece/down)
- Waterproof jacket
- Underwear + socks (2-3 pairs – wash as you go!)
- Cap or hat to avoid sunburn, sunscreen and sunglasses
- Camp shoes/sandals – I use very lightweight crocs (or fake crocs – just make sure they weigh almost nothing)
- Lightweight pyjamas or equivalent (make sure this is lightweight)
- A set of thermals, a wool hat and lightweight waterproof leggings (all optional but I recommend at least for early and late season walkers)
- A set of lightweight clothes for wearing at the end of the day in your accommodation – you can use thermals here as well eg a thermal top and lightweight leggings – or just both thermals.
- Toiletries – toothpaste, toothbrush, dental floss etc
- Collapsible hiking poles – optional but even if you don’t normally use them, consider your knees when you are older and remember there are some long long steep-ish downhill sections!
- Blister pads – an absolute lifesaver!
- A lightweight water bottle and filter – I personally use the Katadyn BeFree but the LifeStraw is very popular too.
- A headtorch
- A lightweight first aid kit, an emergency survival blanket and whistle
- A PLB (personal locator beacon) – this means search and rescue just becomes rescue and saves hours or days – especially essential if you hike alone!
- A plug adapter if you are not using a European plug
- Waterproof pack liner – it likely will rain somewhere!
- The AllTrails maps for the Full Peaks of the Balkans trail (or similar) downloaded for the route.
- Snacks and something to put your packed lunch in (you will tend to get packed lunch from your accommodation). I took a lightweight plastic click clack container!
- Your cross border permit and your passport!
Some alternative shorter options – but still getting a great hike!
These are some tours available – two day trips on the Peaks of the Balkans trail, and 2 multi-day hikes on the trail too.
- Hiking in Hajla Peak 2403m (day trip in part of the Peaks of the Balkans and Via Dinarica trails from Peja)
- Peak of the Balkans e-Biking Tour from Plav (day trip)
- Peaks of the Balkans 8-Day Hiking Tour from Tirana (Albania and Montenegro sections)
- Semi-Private Tour – Peaks of the Balkans – Theth, Valbona & Koman Lake (4 days from Tirana / Shkoder)
You can also do some day hikes on the trail with easy access in and out. These are good ones:
- Theth to Valbone or vice versa – this is a very popular day hike and popular start for the whole trail
- Valbonë to Çerem and return – if you just want a taste of the trail
- Plav to Vusanje – a fabulous walk – should be as popular as the Theth to Valbone one!
You can also shorten the trail. A lot of people skip Kosovo (sadly – because I, and most others that go there, really enjoyed Kosovo). But if time is limited, you can hike from Çerem – Plav or from Dobërdol to Babino Polje on a shorter trail that is still beautiful!
Some excellent side trips on the hike!
You can also add a couple of side trips on the trail. For example these three are very popular and I can recommend them all!
- Three Peaks Hike- Volušnica TalIjanka Popadija – stunning mountain scenery!
- Syri i Kaltër – The Blue Eye – absolutely beautiful pools and absolutely freezing!! From Theth.
- Lake Peja via Peja Pass – a big hill to a lovely and beautiful lake – note this is part of the Peaks of Balkans trail so only do this if you are not doing the full trail! From Theth.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Peaks of the Balkans trail
Q: How long does it take to complete the Peaks of the Balkans trail
A: Typically 10 days for the full trail. Some do it faster or skip a bit and do it in 6-7 days (often skipping the Kosovo bit – which I do not recommend as it is lovely and the people there are great!)
I recommend thinking about taking an extra rest day somewhere too if you are doing the full trail!
Q: How difficult is the Peaks of the Balkans trail?
A: Its easy to moderate – but you want to be fit at the time as there is a lot of uphill and downhill – usually about 1000 meters up and then down each day! You walk about 20km (12.5 miles) a day on a 10 day schedule. You generally walk 5-8 hours a day. Sometimes the waymarking is not great – so use your Peaks of the Balkans trail map.
Q: Can you shorten the route
A: Yes – many people skip the Kosovo section – which is easy to do, but personally I loved the Kosovo section and others that do it too often say it was their favorite part!
But
You can also shorten the route by getting rides on some of the days from where you are staying – cutting out, for example, the first two to seven kms of the days walk that is along a road or track. I did do this in a couple of places and it was worth it – you don’t really miss anything and have more time to enjoy the spectacular bits! I paid once and hitch-hiked the other times!
Q: Do you need a guide?
A: No, but you do need an offline map like this Full Peaks of the Balkans trail. sometimes its hard to know which way to go without it! If you are inexperienced you might prefer to take a guide or go on a guided tour like the ones earlier in this post.
Q: Is there phone signal
A: Mostly yes in the villages. On the trail – not so often! Download everything you need.
Q: Do you need permits?
A: Yes you need a cross-border permit as you are crossing the borders of the three countries. Get it here – you need to apply at least a week before you leave!
Q: When is the best time to hike?
A: June to end of September. June and July have lovely wildflowers and as not as busy as August. May and October are possible but there may be snow and the weather is much more changeable.
Q: Can I camp?
A: Officially in the National Parks it is restricted to certain locations, but unofficially – yes you can find a spot pretty much anywhere on the trail. But staying in the guesthouses is a highlight of the whole experience if you ask me!
Q: How much food do I need to carry?
A: If you stay in guesthouses – just snacks day by day. The guesthouses supply meals as well as a bed! if you are camping you will need to carry all your main meals and resupply at Theth or Plav. On a few days there are places you can stop for drinks and snacks – but don’t expect this every day.
Q: Where do you start and how do you get there?
A: Theth (Albania), Valbonë (Albania), or Plav (Montenegro) are the main starting (and finishing) points. Pejë (Kosovo) is another good option.
Fly into Tirana, Podgorica, or Pristina, then bus or transfer to the trail.
It’s a loop so you finish where you start.
Q: Is it safe?
A: Yes – generally. Crime is extremely low and nature is the real challenge. Risks are weather changes, navigation errors, and remote and rugged terrain. The trail is generally in good shape, although rocks can be slippery in the rain.
Travel Tips for the Peaks of the Balkans trail
A few tips to note before you go…..
Kosovo – don’t skip it
The people make Kososvo and I loved this part of the rail as well. Not quite as dramatic but somehow more pleasant!
It is not true – all the sites that say you cant start in Pejë – you can perfectly easily. And the Kosovan people are so lovely it is good to spend some time with them. I jumped off the track here and hitched into town for a night. (There was also a bus, but a family that saw me waiting just offered a ride so…) It meant I didn’t do the last 6 km from Milishevc to Rekë e Allagës that day, and spent the afternoon and night enjoying Pejë instead. The next day you can either get a ride back to where you jumped off the track, or you can get a ride to Rekë e Allagës and just head off on the next section.
Download and screenshot
Definitely download your Full Peaks of the Balkans trail onto offline mode. And take screenshots of important information. Service is sketchy in the mountains.
Check what the accommodation on the trail includes
Always check with your guesthouses – does the cost include dinner and breakfast? Does it include a packed lunch or do you have a packed lunch option available?
Take cash
When you are on the trail you need cash – most places don’t have card facilities.
Hitch-hiking
Hitch-hiking in the mountain areas is easy and seemed safe to me. Often people will just stop and ask if you want a ride even if you don’t have your thumb out – especially in Kosovo! The Kosovan family that stopped and asked me if I wanted a ride, then took me on a little impromptu tour with them so I didn’t miss out on seeing some of the key things around the area that were not on the hiking trail!
Solo females on the trail
If you are a female travelling alone, don’t stress when the first questions (especially in Kosovo) are a mix of “Are you alright? / Are you lost? / Are you alone?! They are not being weird, they are just not used to seeing women travel alone, let alone hike alone, and are genuinely checking you are okay.
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